wow

27 Oct, 2025

What a day! I left Tokyo this morning, learned some more subway / train / snack lessons, and got to Hakone-Yumoto station by 11:45 this morning. I was so proud of myself of figuring it all out, despite not being able to figure out where to get a hot tea at the station. I did get an absolutely delicious celery, chicken and coriander salad from the convenience store in the station. I thought I was buying whitefish but either way it was fantastic. Lots of pretty views and a quick 90-minute train ride on the “Romancecar” which is the line that goes from Tokyo to Hakone.

I was able to check my luggage through to the hotel from the station (not expensive - about $6) and from there I got a local train to get to the Hakone Open Air Museum. The train climbs through the mountains with various switchbacks and amazing views, but it was crowded and I didn’t get a window seat, so most of my photos turned out like this:

I felt really happy to be out of the city though, much more navigable stations and much easier to communicate with people despite the language barrier. I sat with a trio of older Japanese women who were traveling together. They lit up when they caught a glimpse of Chester on my phone Lock Screen, so that was a conversation starter.

The museum was incredible. It’s a large outdoor sculpture park with mostly 20th century works and an indoor exhibition space devoted to Picasso. The park is so lush and it was a beautiful day. It’s hard to reproduce the effect of viewing art in such a lavish landscape, with birds chirping all around. I had seen pictures before but was surprised how impactful it was in person.

I could go on and on. But from there, I went and got a crowded cable car further up the mountain. Once again I met really nice people. These two 85-year old women have been friends since middle school:

The cable car leads to an air train, which took us to Owakudani, an active volcano. Super full of tourists, but stunning views.

And from there, I got a bus down the mountain and found my way to my hotel. A “book hotel” with a library of books to read and a private onsen on the balcony.

I feel so lucky to be here.